In the last few years, there has been a trend in Washington, D.C. for well-known chefs with high-priced restaurants to open more informal and affordable bistros. This has given the more casual diner the opportunity to sample cuisine from the City’s top chefs. Chef Michel Richard did just this when he opened Central (pronounced Cen-trahl), which is named for its central location on Pennsylvania Avenue between the White House and the Capital. Not everyone may be able to afford Richard’s much-acclaimed Citronelle, but with entrees at Central starting at $16, this is a restaurant everyone can enjoy.
Central is an American bistro
Described as a modern American bistro, Central provides an atmosphere where a diner can feel just as comfortable wearing a suit and tie as a pair of jeans. With the combination of earth-toned colors with light wood, marble, and glass, the setting offers an intimate escape in a lively and upbeat restaurant. There are innovative design details around every corner, such as a large open kitchen, a see-through meat locker, and a floor to ceiling glass enclosed wine cellar.
Central’s menu accurately portrays the American bistro theme. There are traditional items, such as French onion soup, as well as dishes that highlight Michel Richard’s flair, such as the lobster burger. The meal starts with a basket of warm and crusty French bread served with softened butter. The delicious bread is just a sign of the wonderful meal to come.
Our table ordered the goat cheese Caesar salad, the chilled ratatouille, and the fried oysters served with tartar sauce to start. The Caesar salad consists of crunchy iceberg lettuce with chopped tomatoes and a delicious creamy goat cheese Caesar dressing. The simplicity of the lettuce and tomatoes work well because the rich goat cheese dressing is the real star of the dish.
Goat cheese Caesar salad
The ratatouille is served with grated parmesan cheese and a lightly-oiled mixed green salad. This dish was light and refreshing, complimenting the rich salad. The fried oysters were plump and juicy and the crunchy hand-breaded exterior was far from greasy.
Fried oysters
For the main meal, I selected the seafood gumbo, which was one of the specials of the day. It was a traditional New Orleans style gumbo comprised of crawfish and shrimp, served with rice. The dish had just the right amount of spicy heat, and the seafood was cooked to perfection.
Seafood gumbo with rice
The star dish at the table however was the lobster burger, which is made from lobster tail and held together by scallop mousse and served on a brioche bun with a side of delicious hot, crunchy, seasoned French fries.
Lobster burger and French fries
The wine list features a variety of well-priced selections, with bottles starting at $28. We selected a $38 Gruner Veltliner, the crispness of which stood up nicely to the richness of the salad and the lobster burger as well as the spiciness of the gumbo.
Recommended by both
Bon Appetit and
Gourmet magazines,
Central has quickly become a dining destination in Washington, D.C. Fantastic food and a whimsical atmosphere, combined with reasonable prices, have made
Central a success.
Central
1001 Pennsylvania Ave, NW
Washington D.C. 20004
Reservations at (202) 626-0015
